Sand hill cranes fly over head. They, as well as us, are making preparations to head south for the winter. The week's weather remained gloriously warm and sunny ( in the 70's). As the cabins were boarded up and water lines drained, my thoughts drifted back to the early years of Wine Lake Camp and all the folks who have experienced life out here on the edge. Existence was much harsher in the early years before the road was built all the way to Perrault Falls.
In her book, THE LAST RESORT, original owner, Irene Williams wrote about their first year at a remote tourist camp in the 1940's:
"Arthur asked his brother Frank to send any spare parties of tourists to Wine Lake. How many people want to travel forty-five miles over water and cross three portages to catch fish? Not very many!"
"The first party Frank sent us was a man, his wife and guide. It must've taken them all day to get there as they never arrived until around six-thirty. They had brought all their food with them so I didn't have to do a thing. That pleased me but that didn't bring us in much money either. The next day they went out to fish but the motor broke down and although Arthur did offer to rent them his little motor, they declined the offer. The guide spend all day trying to fix the motor but couldn't get it started. Finally, late on Sunday evening, the guide got the motor fixed. Monday morning they were leaving as they only stayed the weekend. We made the large sum of two dollars!"
"The weather was beginning to get chilly and we were beginning to get low on food. We had been living on pork and beans and bologna. I think I know every conceivable way of disguising bologna..... All the things we took for granted in England, were so precious to us over here. If we had a barrel full of water, we would think we were in heaven and if we had a large woodpile, we would think that we were indeed wealthy."
I look around and marvel at all that has been created out here on the edge of the wilderness since the mid-1940's. Now guests pour into camp every season and our menu has evolved way beyond beans and bologna...... but the feeling that we are heavenly blessed to live here still lingers on.
Until next year..... good bye Wine Lake!
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Saturday, October 1, 2011
The eleventh hour at Wine Lake Camp
A Great Blue Heron stood on the dock and stared at Matt as he prepared to leave his summer job at Wine Lake Camp. His mind wandered back to the 41 1/2 inch Pike that he had caught and this poem rippled forth:
Fathomed abyss,
fierce beauty forth
from mystic depths.
Secrets flourish
and so our quests.
In silent realms
fingers dip.
Steeping thoughts
shadow gifts.
It was a clear, quiet night on Monday. A cow moose bellowed loudly in the back bay east of camp. A bull grunted repeatedly in response on the opposite shoreline near the narrows. Three moose hunters stood on shore, listened intently in the pitch dark, and strategized for the early morning hours. They would eventually clock in about 60 hours of hunting during the last week of archery season.
Just over camp hovered a dazzling light show. Green northern lights streaked, twisted, and shifted -- as if headlights emanating from a celestial spaceship down upon all who gazed upwards. "Magnificent," whispered Tom Jr, "Can you believe this?"
"Can you believe I caught a 29 inch walleye fishing for lake trout in 40 feet of water?" said Randy as Greg just shook his head in disbelief.
The lake trout were stealth players this week -- although a few (from 23 -30 inches) were snagged here and there. Beaver dams were blasted through and push/pull poles were manipulated through the shallow entrance to Ghost lake in pursuit of a day's possession of walleyes. Greg, in the same vain of his famous father, Don, took the opportunity to have shore lunch every day under the brilliant sun. Don had brought 12 year-old Greg to Wine Lake Camp back in the 1960's and dragged him on incredible adventures to portage lakes in search of moose, ducks, and lake trout. This breed of outdoors man shows no fear when surrounded by the magnitude of the natural world. Greg still packs a survival pack in his boat and takes whatever comes in stride. Just like dad.
And then came the last morning of the season. It was balmy warm ( 75 degrees) all week and then the hint of frost settled in the morning air. The forest floor became a sea of gold as poplars let loose their sparkling leaves left and right.
The diligent moose hunters gave it one more try -- seeing moose daily but never getting a clear shot. The trout anglers attempted to tease a few out of the deep water before the season closed at midnight. And then it came, a rutting bull that wanted a fight at the 11th hour. About 15 minutes before dusk, Tommy grunted into the moose call and Tom Sr. thrashed at the nearby tree. Dan stood firm as the 51 inch bull moose crashed out of the woods heading directly for him. He took the shot at 6 yards with his traditional bow. What a grand finale to the end of the season.
Closure --- a season of laughs, relaxation, beauty, projects, hard work, cherished memories, simplicity, connecting with oneself/the natural world/and old friends. It just doesn't get any better than that. We now temporarily give Wine Lake back to the flying squirrel in the compost pile, the gray jays hastily picking seeds from the dried sunflowers, and to the silent eyes that peer out at the edge of the woods as the sun begins to set.....
Fathomed abyss,
fierce beauty forth
from mystic depths.
Secrets flourish
and so our quests.
In silent realms
fingers dip.
Steeping thoughts
shadow gifts.
It was a clear, quiet night on Monday. A cow moose bellowed loudly in the back bay east of camp. A bull grunted repeatedly in response on the opposite shoreline near the narrows. Three moose hunters stood on shore, listened intently in the pitch dark, and strategized for the early morning hours. They would eventually clock in about 60 hours of hunting during the last week of archery season.
Just over camp hovered a dazzling light show. Green northern lights streaked, twisted, and shifted -- as if headlights emanating from a celestial spaceship down upon all who gazed upwards. "Magnificent," whispered Tom Jr, "Can you believe this?"
"Can you believe I caught a 29 inch walleye fishing for lake trout in 40 feet of water?" said Randy as Greg just shook his head in disbelief.
The lake trout were stealth players this week -- although a few (from 23 -30 inches) were snagged here and there. Beaver dams were blasted through and push/pull poles were manipulated through the shallow entrance to Ghost lake in pursuit of a day's possession of walleyes. Greg, in the same vain of his famous father, Don, took the opportunity to have shore lunch every day under the brilliant sun. Don had brought 12 year-old Greg to Wine Lake Camp back in the 1960's and dragged him on incredible adventures to portage lakes in search of moose, ducks, and lake trout. This breed of outdoors man shows no fear when surrounded by the magnitude of the natural world. Greg still packs a survival pack in his boat and takes whatever comes in stride. Just like dad.
And then came the last morning of the season. It was balmy warm ( 75 degrees) all week and then the hint of frost settled in the morning air. The forest floor became a sea of gold as poplars let loose their sparkling leaves left and right.
The diligent moose hunters gave it one more try -- seeing moose daily but never getting a clear shot. The trout anglers attempted to tease a few out of the deep water before the season closed at midnight. And then it came, a rutting bull that wanted a fight at the 11th hour. About 15 minutes before dusk, Tommy grunted into the moose call and Tom Sr. thrashed at the nearby tree. Dan stood firm as the 51 inch bull moose crashed out of the woods heading directly for him. He took the shot at 6 yards with his traditional bow. What a grand finale to the end of the season.
Closure --- a season of laughs, relaxation, beauty, projects, hard work, cherished memories, simplicity, connecting with oneself/the natural world/and old friends. It just doesn't get any better than that. We now temporarily give Wine Lake back to the flying squirrel in the compost pile, the gray jays hastily picking seeds from the dried sunflowers, and to the silent eyes that peer out at the edge of the woods as the sun begins to set.....
Sunday, September 25, 2011
Fall has arrived (September 2011)
Just as the vibrant rust and yellow flowers of summer faded (having been zapped by a mid-September hard frost), the undergrowth in the bush rippled forth in striking hues of red, orange, and gold. Reddish tone scrub maples made the floor of the forest appear as if on fire, while the poplars twinkled yellow leaves among the evergreen. We weren't really losing the rich beauty of summer, we were gaining the mosaic of Fall's splendor. In Autumn, the guests tend to be experienced outdoorsmen who are able to roll with the punches. The weather can be unpredictable and often comes in extremes.
There are always four- legged creatures deep in the woods, but we don't often have direct contact with them. The animal world was incredibly active and visible this week. First, as Frank slept soundly in the Eagle's Nest on Friday night, a hungry bear ravaged through the rubbermaid containers and coolers outside in the back of his pickup truck. Every apple, stick of butter, loaf of bread, and bag of oats was devoured. Tin cans were dented in frustration. But as Frank laboriously tried to scoop up the scattered coffee grounds, he laughed and said, "Well, at least he didn't get the beer."
As Bob tinkered with his tackle boxes stuffed full of jig heads, and contemplated whether life after his retirement party would include more fishing time, he watched a black bear leisurely relax on the sand beach at the south end of Wine Lake. Johnny and his guide put the sneak on seven different moose on Tuesday ( three bulls and two sets of cows and calves). At one point, Johnny stood frozen in disbelief as the cow moose came within a few feet of him and could have casually kissed him had she so desired. Later, the hunters were amazed to see four wolves cross the river, led by a jet black wolf with striking white patches on it's face.
The next day, Al hooked into small mouth bass at the Anishinabi portage and was aware that wolf scat and a pool of blood splattered the rocks near the waterfall. Working as a team, the wolves' hunt had been successful. There have also been unusual reports of mountain lion sightings near Ear Falls. And on the way out and across the portage, John Sr. watched a 40 lb. beaver walk within 6 feet of his path.
The smoke from the wood stoves curled out of the chimneys and wafted across the water. It was a gentle reminder that the seasons were in a state of flux. Some days were warm and sunny ( 60's and 70's); most were chilly and wet. A slower pace descended upon the camp with late morning fishing excursions. The resolve of the fishermen had to be strengthened several times as the wind presented a difficult obstacle to overcome. Busting up beaver dams was required to access Beaver Lake on a daily basis.
I would say the fishing was a little harder than normal this week, and the weather a bit testy, but "the ride down the curves in the river in a flat bottom boat with Herb was worth the price of admission," according to Bob. "I stare at a computer screen all day long, so just being at Wine Lake is good for my soul." Some anglers were able to scare up some walleye who were just barely sucking on the minnows, and find trout down about 40 feet below. The Missouri gang slung steel for Pike and landed a 30", 31" and 40" Northern, as well as a 27 inch Laker in 10 foot of water.
It is said that the average American watches five hours of television per day. Count me as atypical. When I want to watch something, I stare endlessly at the diamonds glistening on the water or the wind rustling the leaves. When I crave drama, all I need to do is talk with any of the guests at camp and hear about their lives. That's the best reality show I know.
The smoke from the wood stoves curled up and out of the chimney.
There's less adrenalin in the air.
A quieter existence beckons.
Fall has arrived.
Fall has very much arrived.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Dazzling Northern Lights fill the sky

The week started off in the mid-80's as we neared the full moon. There was not a hint in the air as to why a migration had begun. But at 3am on Sunday morning, Bob sat straight up in bed... dreaming that he had been in a big city traffic jam. Instead, the loud sound of horns blasting in the dark of night was actually 100 geese flying overhead and reporting to one another that the wild rice marsh below would be a fine stopping over point in their travels.
Brad, Herb, Nate, and Bruce went for an evening swim in front of camp that day --probably the last intentional freshwater dip of the season. Brad was celebrating his and John's stringer of walleye on the first afternoon of fishing. Nate and Bruce were celebrating turning 40-years-old. They playfully splashed in the water, stuck their heads into a beaver lodge, carved a wooden fish sculpture, made Rockin Moroccan campfire stew, and entered a mallard and a surgically enlarged walleye in the weekly fishing tournament. As the full moon shone through their window like a giant night light later that evening, Nate commented, "there's no other place on earth I'd rather be."
Fifteen years ago, Nate and his wife Jen worked at Wine Lake. They returned for their honeymoon and still later with kids in tow. "This place helped define who I am as a person," stated Nate with gratitude.
By Monday evening, the moon was at full effervescence. Half the camp decided to take advantage of it and fish well after dark. Gene bent back his barbs and went forth to find perch and northern. Quinton and Kermit lingered in central Wine Lake till 11pm, catching 30 -40 walleye over 18 inches in size. Gene and Warren stayed on the north end and were treated to a display of shadowy green northern lights across the darkening horizon.
John, Leon, Gary, and Brad pursued walleye each day; on glorious warm and sunny days and even on Wednesday when a series of squalls rolled through pelting the water with sleet, hail, and half dollar-sized snowflakes. These guys wrote the book on "pampered living in the wild." Each evening, Brad created a masterpiece of fresh fish with all the trimmings. "What I love about Wine Lake," said Brad, "is you don't have to pack in a lot of food. You just have to get creative with the fish you're guaranteed to catch every day." One night a bed of fresh spinach was covered with alfredo linguini and topped with lemony grilled walleye and capers. Another night it was fish gumbo and later walleye cerviche and tortilla chips. Just for fun, one night they fried fish.
Chris and Chad can always be found at their honey hole in central Wine around dusk. If the wind kicks the water up during the day, they head to the "hump" on the north end of the lake. Every September, in 20 -25 feet of water, the lake produces one walleye after another. Three boats caught 100 walleyes in an hour on Tuesday evening. "We need to switch to another species. This is too easy," first timer Eric said.
Sari reeled in perch and celebrated another birthday overlooking the peaceful waters of Wine Lake. She listened to Bob's excited chatter when he caught five walleye between 20 and 28 inches in two hours time. She reflected in the cabin's journal about all the trips, all the people, and all the memories she and Bob have made at Wine Lake. Wine Lake is etched in their hearts and they are etched in ours.
Warren remembers coming to Wine Lake when 12 year-old Tommy Williams ( now 60) shot his first deer. Bob shared memories of "borrowing" some minnows from women camping at Anishinabi Falls back in the 60's. The road map of wrinkles on these guy's faces indicate how much time they have spent in the elements pursuing their love of angling and the out of doors. We all pray that they each still have a few more trips left in them. Warren thinks he has brought over 40 fellows up here from Arkansas over the years. "And only two just came once," he grinned.
There is a long history of characters and their adventures on Wine Lake dating back 70 years since the beginning of the camp. A small boat ventured onto the lake on Thursday carrying the Schulte family. Grandpa Schulte was the generous man who adopted the grave site of Frances Fobister in the 1950's, built a cross and white picket fence, later had a grave stone carved, and did regular upkeep on the memorial site. He is no longer alive, but his middle-aged grandson carried a set of vinyl picket fences in his small boat and prepared to maintain the site once again. Once, in honor of the young, four-year-old Frances, and lastly, in honor of his wonderful role model, Grandpa Schulte.......
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
NW Ontario -- the new Caribbean?
With climate change slowly (and sometimes drastically) tweaking our weather system, our typical Fall temperatures in the sunny 70's were soon replaced by four hot days in the mid to upper 80's. Shorts were quickly created out of warm autumn attire to relieve sweaty anglers. According to a recent study coming out of the University of Texas, "animals and plants are moving rapidly away from the equator to escape the global warming's rising temperatures. Research of 2000 species shows that they're headed toward the poles at an average of a mile per year." "If you observe closely, you'll even see homo sapians encroaching on NW Ontario by the boatloads," mused Robbie.
Within four hours of climbing up into the tree stand, Rick shot a black bear with his bow. The rains lifted and he was able to track and haul the noble animal back to camp as the sun dipped below the western horizon. His buddies took a break from fishing on Sunday to help butcher and freeze up the prize. Dennis and Dave sought out big northern pike and were rewarded with a 36" and 39" by the week's end. Besides all the fishing Rick was able to enjoy, a high light for him was checking his trail camera and seeing several wolves work the bear baits each night.
The group from Chicago worked tirelessly to reel in numerous quality fish. Ken was most proud of the 37 1/2 inch Northern Pike he landed and Ed topped off with a 40 inch northern. Al just kept shaking his head and marveling at what he caught this week. "I've never caught so many large fish in my whole life," he grinned. Mark and Mike tracked large northern and trout, but spent most of their time playing around with forty-five trophy walleyes from 18 - 27 1/4 inches in size.
Randy, Dan, Skeeter, and Kelly sat around the LIAR'S FIRE each night on their deck. They reminisced about past fishing trips, joked about who would win their trophy fishing lure toilet seat for goofiest behavior of the week, and told stories from each day's adventures. There were some nice large northern pike entered on the brag board by this group. Kelly hinted at how he managed to also catch ten lake trout on the south and west shorelines of Wine Lake. His secret technique was to fish between 50- 55 foot down despite the fact that it was September and the trout should be gravitating upward. Randy and Kelly landed 22 - 31 inch Lakers by staying deep.
The water level continues to drop. It's still possible to access Ghost, Mud, and Beaver Lakes by trolling in shallow water drive, but waders may soon be the preferred method of sneaking into those honey holes. The weed beds have flourished from the warm, dry summer temperatures. They resemble a tangled dreadlocked mess of hair if your propeller gets in too deep. Bring plenty of lures to fling into the cabbage weeds -- a giant northern lays dormant there waiting for your best effort!
"Attracting a man is just like fishing ---
you just have to jiggle the bait a bit!"
Monday, September 5, 2011
Sustainable Fishing Practices
Eleven year-old Dion was up early on Sunday morning, eager to experience what his Dad had been telling him about for years. On his first trip to NW Ontario, Dion sauntered down to the dock and repeatedly cast into the bay. It was easy to catch perch, northern, and a 14 inch small mouth while everyone else in camp was still sipping their coffee and making plans for their day.
What Dion Jr. doesn't know is that the strong fishery that he will explore all week has been lovingly cared for by thousands of anglers for years. The delight that appeared on his eleven year-old face when he eventually reeled in the largest walleye caught all week, is possible because more and more visitors to Wine Lake are thinking about their long term impact while enjoying a remote fishing opportunity.
Patrick Kiger shares FIVE SUSTAINABLE FISHING PRACTICES that will allow Dion Jr and his children the same exhilarating experience that countless anglers before him have relished. Have you stopped to think about what each of us can do to keep Wine Lake a world-class fishery surround by a protected wilderness?
"When recreational anglers go out into nature, they can observe first hand the effects of pollution, overfishing, and habitat destruction. And they become keenly aware that these problems endanger that past time to which they're so devoted. If you fish for pleasure, there's plenty you can do to protect fish, other aquatic animals, and the environment,. Here are five ideas.
1. Practice Carbon-Conscious Fishing
Next to commercial overfishing, climate change is one of the biggest menaces to the life in our rivers, lakes, bays, and oceans. You can do your part to combat these dangerous trends by reducing the amount of carbon that your fishing boat puts in the atmosphere. Replace your propeller with a new stainless steel one, which will reduce drag. Closely monitor fuel consumption and find the most energy-efficient cruising speed. Learn to go easy on the throttle.
2. Use Lead-Free Tackle
Anyone who remembers the horror stories about kids getting brain damage from eating paint chips knows that lead is toxic to most living things. Lead is still an ingredient in most fishing jigs and sinkers. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, fish exposed to enough lead can exhibit a wide range of problems, including muscular and neurological degeneration and destruction, stunted growth, reproductive problems and paralysis. Worse yet, lead also kills loons and eagles, who sometimes are unlucky enough to eat a fish that's swallowed a lead sinker. Fortunately, you can order bismuth jigs from suppliers like Northland Tackle and locate other lead-free fishing gear.
3. Practice Catch and Release
If you throw back the big, robust prize catches, you give them the chance to live, mate and produce equally robust progeny. Be sure to learn the techniques espoused by catch-and-release experts, such as using a circle hook, which is less likely to catch a fish's gut and improves it's chances of survival upon release. Gently handling fish, landing them horizontally with a cradle, and quickly getting them back into the water are all practices that help ensure the fish will live to be caught again.
4. Pack Out Everything You Pack In
People leave all sorts of junk behind on shorelines and in the water, and it causes problems. Debris in the water can wrap around boat propellers, causing engine damage, and trash like cigarette filters and grocery bags look like food to animals. Once ingested, they cause suffocation or starvation. The point is, be fastidious about bagging all your debris and bringing it home with you -- for recycling and composting, if possible. If you're really committed to protecting the environment, pick up somebody else's trash as well.
5. When You Keep Your Catch, Use Every Part of It
Chances are, unless you're a shark, you probably don't eat the whole fish. Don't throw the rest away. While some creative souls make jewelry out of the bones, you can compost the fish parts with plant waste such as sawdust, peat, wood chips, leaves or bark. Microorganisms in the pile will feed on the waste, and over the course of several months, convert it into rich humus that is great for growing plants. Don't worry about the smell because the heat from the microbes will pasteurize the pile, eliminating the odor, as well as any disease organisms."
Sterling commented this week, that "during a typical fishing season, I spend a lot of time in a boat angling and do quite well. But nothing holds an equal to the fishing environment, as well as the fish, that are caught in Wine Lake. I've often wondered who is 'really' being caught because from the day I leave Wine Lake Camp I begin counting the days as to when I will return....and there's nothing wrong with that, except it's not soon enough."
There haven't been many sightings of moose over the last month, but this week they came out of hiding. Lucy and her two calves frolicked in the bay mid-week and four other moose were spotted in the river. Substantial rain showers and some gusty winds visited us this week. All these sights and sounds, as well as the taste, smell, and feel of Wine Lake are still out here .....waiting for your senses to indulge them. Thank you for helping preserve this little piece of paradise.
Monday, August 29, 2011
Surf and Turf
Late August fishing was fantastic! Within the first hour and a half on the lake, Marty and Chris caught two trophy lakers. Trout fishing remained strong for the first half of the week with fourteen lake trout caught and released between 23" -30 1/2 inches.
The large crew from Nebraska didn't waste any time. Their menu plan called for a walleye fish fry the first night and the lake lovingly produced. Jim even caught a 25 incher within hours of wetting his line on Saturday.
Dave remembers his first fishing trip to Wine Lake with his dad back in the 1980's. He is amazed by the unbelievable difference in the fisheries today. First timer, Scott, has fished Lac Seul and the Sioux Lookout region for years. After joining his group in catching endless walleyes between 19" to 24", he commented about how much bigger the average fish are in Wine Lake. Another first timer, Joey, from the heart of Chicago, caught a 30 inch walleye this week. Being new to angling in a strong, dynamic fishery, he didn't even realize this was a "once in a lifetime catch." No camera was available.... only a wonderful memory was created.
There were lots of skilled anglers in camp this week. They were on the water taking it all so seriously, just like an 8 - 5 job. But then when they returned to camp, the festivities began. Grilling, playing cards, horseshoes and ladder ball, and laughing at all the fish stories they could muster up to tell. There was even a line forming in the back yard to get free back adjustments from Steve, the visiting chiropractor. All in all, 127 trophy fish were caught and released this week. The trophy walleyes dominated the brag board with eighteen of them measuring between 25" to 30".
The day time temperatures were mostly in the 70's with a touch of rain now and then. With little moisture befalling the earth, the water level of the lake continued to drop. Accessing Ghost and Mud Lake requires tipping up your motor into shallow water drive. The beavers are as busy as the Army Corp of Engineers at the entrance to Beaver Lake. Nights are in the 50's with heavy dew saturating the grass each morning.
On Tuesday evening, Marty shot a black bear with his bow in the woods surrounding Turn Around Lake. At 9 pm, his wife and guide went to pick him up. Lightening bolts and thunder clouds were building off to the south as the skies darkened. Marty needed to quickly track and field dress the bear before the clouds opened up. By 10 pm, the threesome were able to slowly wander back through the woods with a flashlight and transport the under 200 lb. bear into the boat. It was pitch dark but heat lightening kept building. As the boat crept back down the lake, streaks of electricity flashed across the sky like the grand finale of fireworks on the 4th of July. The light show brightened the way back in a boat without headlights. By the time they got to shore and hung the bear, the skies opened up and healing rain drenched the earth. The next day, Jay and Scott chipped in to butcher the harvested bear. Then Marty shared grilled bear loin wrapped in bacon with all the camp guests. The dark black fur of the once proud bear was skinned, salted, and folded to take home for tanning.
It's the time of year that we are busy splitting wood in preparation for winter and the next season. The smell of freshly cut pine trees, and the feel of sticky sap, permeates the camp. Fall is fast approaching, and with gratitude given to the fallen bear and all the fillets consumed, we have already shared a Thanksgiving meal together.
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